Allalinhorn, Saas Fee - 20th August 2014

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Allinhorn, 11th August 2011

With Lorna still stuck in hospital in Visp I was starting to get a bit stir crazy up in Saas (not as much as Lorna obviously) so I had an idea to walk up to the col between the Feekopf and Allinhorn, from the Mittelallalin. I wasn't sure if solo-ing was a good idea just now, mentally, although I felt fine yesterday on the straighforward walk to the Brittania Hut.   

The Mittleallalin was busy as usual with ski-ers, boarders and folks heading for the peaks. I spent some time faffing and watching what different teams were doing and it seemed almost all were roping up. After some deliberation I set off for the col up the normal "tourist" route, past the ski lifts and up close to the seracs of the Allinhorn. 

I kept saying to myself that I would turn round if I felt uncomfortable or it turns out I am the only solo climber on the mountain! It's funny how you watch other folks thinking they must be experienced in all this, and they turn out to be more hesitant than yourself!

As I walked on further up the well worn and safe trench, I noticed one other lone soul plodding his way up. Rightly or wrongly I followed all the time wityh a view to stopping at the col and then going back down after some happy snaps! 



Looking back down to the Mittleallalin and the ski area.



On the way I passed through the remains of avalanche debris from what looked like a collapsed serac. Unlike other people I thought the done thing would be to move quickly through such ground, then take the photos; not stand in the middle of it and snap away?      



Hard to tell from the photo, but these blocks of ice amongst the debris were the size of a small car! 

Looking back down at the trail of avalanche debris from above, of course! 

It came to my notice that as slow as I was going, no-one had passed me! I also saw a team of seven including the guide on a rope; I may be wrong but that seems a lot!?

Approaching the col near the Feekopf where I decided on closer inspection not to solo it as everyone was roped and our experience of recent rockfall put me off the idea. Later I would spot the rescue helicopter landing by a group of climbers on the snow just above the rock band. Hopefully nothing serious.  

At the col I got talking to the lone climber I saw earlier, joking I would take his photo for him on the summit if I saw him.

The summit ridge is not too narrow, with just enough room for people to pass as long you don't trip over ropes and crampons and they're not Italian. Falling off shouldn't be an issue but a slide here would still spoil your day! especially if you have to avoid any Italians!  

As it turned out, I met the lone walker who introduced himself as Manfred, so we took some happy snaps by the summit cross and had a chat whilst I enjoyed a squashed jam roll and Manfred enjoyed his mini bottle of wine!    

Shockingly posey photo kindly taken by Manfred, once I'd skillfully negotiated my way past the group of Italians leaving the cross for the wider part of the summit.

There were even dogs up there! Plus some teams, probably families with young-ish kids, around ten - twelve years old. I saw one guy with a small child of about five, six maybe, near the col. 

Looking across to theStrahlhorn and Rimpfischhorn from the summit of the Allinhorn.

A different view of Eginner with it's ridge leading away to the Mittaghorn in the distance.

My good companion for the day, Manfred posing in the sun!

Manfred heading back down to the col by the Feekopf. We enjoyed a leisurely walk back to the Mittleallalin where we enjoyed a couple of celebratory beers before bidding farewell. If Manfred is ever in Scotland it would be good to show him some of the mountains we have to offer.

Swiss Alps - Allalinhorn 4027m via The Hohlaubgrat, 11th August, Day 2.

And so after not the best of sleep listening to the hippo two beds away from me, came the dreaded knock at the door at 4am. Rather annoyingly the hippo or his pals on the top bunks didn't bother to get up, and were still in bed by the time we'd had our breakfast and left! Anyway we were out of the hut by a leisurely 5am, giving me time to confirm the way we were going in the dark, after a quick a quick recce the day before, and to casually spy on other folks to check the way. From the hut we descend a loose and rocky path down onto the boulders at the edge of the Hohluab Glacier. In daylight this would be easy, but in the dark with a bit of a drop to the left it took a little more care.
Although I knew the general direction, I wasn't sure of the actual route across the galcier so I kept the team in front in my sights whilst we stopped to put crampons on.

It was still pretty dark as we made our way across the glacier, but thankfully there weren't any major crevasses and what there were, were easily crossed.

The way ahead looked a bit ominous in the dark but I knew we had to bear left-ish at some point to gain the start of the Hohluabgrat ridge which would lead us all the way to the summit of the Allalinhorn.
  

Lorna trying not to look tired as we stop for a wee break. A team of four can be seen ahead on the snow slope, centre of the picture.

Me, also just starting to wake up. Despite the dark and gloomy start, and being on top of a sheet of ice, it wasn't all that cold and pretty soon the sun would be up.

Soon we were off the ice and onto the snow slope, zig-zagging our way leftwards towards the central rock band that forms the Hohlaubgrat. 

We were getting level with the Mittel-Allalin, the worlds highest revolving resteraunt (apparently) as the piste bashers for the Saas Fee ski area set off to work.

Looking back over our route over the Hohlaub Glacier as the sun rises over the Swiss Alps.

Gradually the slope gets a little steeper as you get higher up the ridge.

The Lagginhorn and Weissmies above the clouds in the distance.

More teams arriving having left from the middle station of the Metro underground railway that goes up to the Mittel-Allalin.

High above the Mittel-Allalin. The middle station has a tunnel that leads out onto the glacier somewhere central at the bottom of the rock ridge, about centre of the picture.  

Lorna leading for a while as the summit of the Allalinhorn comes into view.

The final easy snow crest that leads up to the 30m rock band.

This is where the fun, if you can call it fun really started! This part is a 30m section of about V-Diff, however there was a queue of people waiting to get up it. At one point a Swiss guide led his clients up through what we thought were people still climbing up the route. It turned out that they were attempting to come down the way most folks were going up and causing chaos. We must have waited at least 45 minutes or longer as body after body (about 8-10 in all) came down by various methods and different ropes, making going up far to dodgy. At one point we moved from our uncomfortable and exposed stance to make ourselves safe around a spike, only to have one of these jokers knock Lorna's axe from it's snow placement and send it on it's way down to Saas Fee. Luckily I caught it, but the offending abseiler arrogantly said it wasn't his problem as it wasn't his axe - nice! Then another female landed in the exact spot where Lorna was standing only minutes earlier, and slid several feet before her crampons stopped her. Had Lorna been there she would've been sent for a bit of a slide! Eventually they buggered off and left us in peace to climb up.
(I think they were Italian though I'm not sure?).
   

Lorna finally getting peace to climb the bolted 30m pitch which also has bits of tat for aid if you find it a little sketchy in crampons, but otherwise it's not too bad.

Looking down to the Mittel-Allalin and Saas Fee.

Lorna finally triumphant at thesummit cross on the Allalinhorn.

Me and my helmet at it's annoying jaunty angle!
From the summit we took the "normal" route down to the Mittel-Allalin for a well deserved beer and a free trip down on the underground Metro (I don't know how it happened, but we never got to pay?) then the cable back to Saas Fee.

     

Swiss Alps - Allalinhorn 4027m, 10th August 2010, Day 1.

After two days of "warming up", we decided to go for the Allalinhorn via the Hohlaubgrat Route from the Brittania Hut. However with time to kill, we had a couple of shots on the Feeblitz bobsleigh run in Saas Fee first. We then took the Plattjen lift once again to 2500m and then the path that passes below the Mittaghorn and continues on to the Brittania Hut at 3030m which sits above the Chessjen Glacier. And with more time to kill we stopped for a drink at the resteraunt by the lift. This route takes about two hours although there is a shorter approach from the Felskin lift but that seems like cheating!

On the way we passed below the Mittaghorn and the ridge leading round to the Eginner at 3370m.

As we made our round we go our first veiw of the Brittania Hut overlooking the Chessjen Glacier.

We also made a few friends on the way - maybe we would see them again in a stew later at the hut?

They obvioulsy weren't too bothered by people as they just barged their way through on the path - very alpine like manners!

Looking back down the moraine slopes to our route just before crossing the glacier.

It was interesting to see so many day walkers slipping and sliding around on the glacier seemingly unaware of the possible dangers atlhough on a day like today, it all seems benign. Crampons weren't neccessary but there were still a few holes to fall down especially at the edges, just where all the day walkers were trying to "ski" down in their boots!

One of the safe crossings over the soft edges of the glacier.

Almost at the hut now with the glacier below, the Eginner in the background and the route from the Felskin lift through the middle of the picture.

At last after a seemingly long two hours in the afternoon heat, we arrived at our "hotel" for the night at about 3pm ish - The Brittania Hut sitting at 3030m.

We had aleady booked the day before by phone and although most of the staff speak good english, and me a little german, they still had the wrong name down in their book. However we still got a bed for the night although sleep was at a premium as we had the loudest snorer in Switzerland in our room! I did take ear plugs and my headphones for some music but I was just too lazy to get them out. Still the food was excellent and we had a good conversation with two lads from Belgium: Wim and Dennis who managed to eat any left over food they could find! They were heading for the Rimpfischorn with a 3am wake up call, and so retired even earlier than us who had a 4am call for the Allalinhorn.

From the hut looking out over to the Stralhorn (i think?) at 4190m. So after a couple of beers a good meal it was heads down at about 8pm and attempt to get some sleep. It wasn't long before there was a knock at the door inviting us for breakfast...