Birthday in Coire an t-Sneachda

Today I spent my birthday in Coire an t-Sneachda with Mark, Willy and the crowds of other folk out enjoying the bright, but very windy weather before the forecast (?) storms were due to arrive later in the day.

Following the crowds into Sneachda. It looks pretty miserable but in fact was quite bright, even sunny alot of the time. Most of the gully lines seem to be still complete so hopefully they'll last a little longer?

The Cicerone Guide to winter climbing routes in the Cairgorms, page 29.

Heading up into Aladdin's Couloir. Although we soloed it, there was a nice ice section on the left just before the dog leg where one team was practicing with ice screws.

Looking back down the couloir to Aladdin's Pinnacle with Cairngorm in the far distance. Aladdin's Mirror, our second route, comes up to the right of the pinnacle (left in the photo) and then joins the couloir. On the plateau, we headed west and then back down into the corrie to start Aladdin's Mirror.

Looking west across the corrie to Aladdin's Mirror on the left of the picture. It was from here that earlier in the day we saw our first falling rucsac of the day, coming from somewhere in the centre of the photo!

At the left turn in Aladdin's Mirror, Mark saw what he thought was a "do-able" gully (ahem). So we headed up high above the Mirror into the narrowing chimney which turned out to be more difficult than it appeared, even with the rope. Luckily I found a handy piton to use and we "retreated" back to a snow bay above the dog leg and traversed across to the Mirror, just below Aladdin's Pinnacle.

Willy belaying Mark across the snow bay, across to the Mirror (where the other climber is). It was from just where Mark is where we saw our second falling rucsac heading down the Mirror, apparently belonging to a skier on their way down the couloir!

Back in the couloir, taking the steeper exit to the left. Then right (west) and back into Sneachda for a soggy walk back to the car!

At last! A view of Ben More and Stob Binnein!

Ater some deliberation over the road (dodgy), snow (deep) and avalanche (Cat 4) conditions in the Northern Cairngorms (Coire an t'Sneachda), Myself, Gordon, Mark and Willy, decided to head for either Ben Lawers or the Tarmachan Ridge as alternatives. When we could only get 50 meters up the Lawers road, we headed for Ben More instead! At 1174m, Ben More became the first, no doubt of many training "slogs" for Mont Blanc!

As there had been Northerly winds for the previous 2/3 days, we had good neve for most of the way up - even icy in some places.

Mark having the first of his crampon malfunctions shortly after dropping his axe which fortuneatly only went for a short slide!

Prior to this, Willy had thrown himself down the mountain whilst trying to create a large snow-ice ball to launch at Mark, resulting in an entertaining display of a self arrest!

Don't know if this is me or Willy near the top? Could be me surounded by my "aura".

Once at the top of Ben More, we were back in the sunshine with great views over to Stob Binnein and beyond.

What a difference from two weeks ago when we sheltered in this hollow out of the wind and spindrift. Now we had a perfect lunch spot amongst the rimed up boulders around the trig point.

Looking down from the summit over Loch Tay with Ben Lawers just to it's left. Spot the "face" on the rimed trig point.

Heading down to the bealach before climbing Stob Binnein.

Mark having more crampon issues! It turns out that his feet are the wrong shape-or something?

Attempting to take the faster way down, although it can get sore on your backside after a while.

Gordon approaching the 1165m summit of Stob Binnein.

Me having a rest whilst Willy "carved something" in the ice before we headed back down to the bealach and the car.

We told Gordon there was a weight limit!

Ben More, 24th Januray 2009

A very wild and windy day today as myself, Stevie and Willy, ventured up Ben More (1174m). After studying the SAIS forecast, we opted for a simple walk rather than attempt any gullies. We started a short distance east of Benmore Farm, on the A85 to Crianlarich. See map. Our ascent took us staright up the north-west shoulder, making sure we kept to the north-east of the hanging corrie on this side of the mountain. As we got higher, we had to struggle to stay on our feet and visibility would change from "just about", to zero in seconds! Spindrift was also another enjoyable part of our climb and it was a relief to find shelter in a hollow, just below the barely visible trig point at the top. As invisible as the trig point was, it didn't help that the inside of my goggles had frozen! At this point I did attempt, after changing gloves, to take some photos but my hands and my camera were too cold! So after some hot tea/soup and very cold sandwiches, we had to map read our way down the ridge connecting Ben More with Stob Binnein, to the bealach at GR 433236. It was only then we got any view at all our surroundings and fleeting glimpses of Ben More summit and nearly the top of Stob Binnein. From the bealach we descended west through, deep snow (almost waist deep in places), into the valley and follow the Benmore Burn back to the farm.

I had to "aqquire" this picture of Ben More summit, but imagine another couple of feet of snow and no view.

This too, would've been the view back down to Ben More Farm!

You can see the enjoyment all over our faces!

And again - why do we do it?

We used the Crianlarich map from the Harvey, Superwalker series - available from Amazon.

Austria - Skiing in Soll and the SkiWelt. January 10th - 17th, 2009

Another week of amazingly good weather in Austria. Also back in Soll again, part of the SkiWelt, so we're getting used to finding our way around. With nearly 300 kilometers of piste and 70 Ski huts, restaurants and après-ski bars (that's one approx. every 3.9 km!), it's a fantastic area and can take a full day to cross from one end to the other.

My new ski gear for 2009! Actually this is "Monti", part if the kids ski instructors set up. The guy wearing it seemed to be having a good time though!

This is Rudi, one of the instructors from the Hochsoll Ski School who is also setting up, "Bike and hike Wilderkaiser" this summer.

From left to right - Huw, Doreen, Rudi, Lorna, Me, Emille and Sandra (taken by Derek!).

Looking at just a small part of the "Wilderkaiser". Maybe one day I'll get up there!

Lorna, Doreen and Huw "racing" towards me just before the batteries died on the camera!

Little people showing the adults how to do it!

Lorna, Doreen and Huw skiing under the Hartkaiserbahn, down to the Rubezhal resteraunt on the run into Ellmau. The Rubezhal is sometimes visited by the rich and famous, so we thought we'd better pop in too! The terrace has a cracking view of the Wilderkaiser, and the whole ski area is part of the SkiWelt.

Aladdin's Couloir, Coire an t-Sneachda, 4th January 2009

Mark and myself were in Coire an t-Sneachda today to do the grade I, Aladdin's Couloir. See map. Today the weather was milder than our previous two visits to Coire an t-Sneachda , however with low cloud we weren't treated to the same views. The forecast said occaisional light snow flurries, which turned out to be non stop! Although never too heavy to affect visibilty (the fog did that), snow was starting to accumulate on the route, but there were some small areas of windslab starting to form. The snow is set to continue overnight which will increase the avalanche risk.

Just above the start of Aladdin's Couloir, looking up to the corner and the small section of ice; about 2 metres which was easily negotiated.

Mark heading up the Couloir towards the area where Aladdin's Mirror joins the route. Looking down a deserted Aladdin's Couloir. We only saw one other party going up, although there were other teams on other routes that we couldn't identify from below. Once we reached the top (no cornice), we headed west to descend the Goat Track, and then back to the Ski Centre.

Coire an t-Sneachda in better weather! Aladdin's Couloir is the dog leg gully rising left of centre.

Snow Bunting enjoying a ham sandwhich near the stretcher box.

Snowman on Loch Morlich.

We used the Cairngorm map from the Harvey, Superwalker series, and the Cicerone guide to winter climbs in the Cairngorms, - both available from Amazon.

Jacobs Ladder (again), 31st December, 2008

New year's eve and another fantastic day in the Cairngorms today, this time taking the Gunner up Jacobs Ladder in Coire an t'Sneachda, see map, which is still in great condition. About halfway up we switched to the right hand side of the gully to give a slightly different feel and exit at the top. Also with another temperature inversion, I had to scrape ice off the inside of Stevie's car, to see anything as we drove into Aviemore with temperatures of -10c at least! Even with the heaters on full! However, higher up we had clear skies and great visibilty, and it was a little warmer, especially in the gully. The drive home was still chilly though, with the windscreen washers still freezzing up. Luckily there was some some Red Bull left to wash the screen with!

Looking down over Coire an t'Sneachda, with Aviemore covered by cloud.

Stevie and Mark on their way up Jacobs Ladder. Stevie doing his last pitch with another team moving together on his right.

A couple of well prepared mountaineers passing by, blissfully unaware of the drops to their left. Wellies and shopping bags are of course essential when taking any trip into the mountains. Watching the skaters on Loch Morlich with Coire an t'Sneachda, the Fiacaill Ridge and Coire an Lochan in the distance. What a great way to spend Hogmany!

We used the Cairngorm map from the Harvey, Superwalker series and the Cicerone guide to winter climbs in the Cairngorms - both available from Amazon.

Jacobs Ladder, Coire an t-Sneachda, 28th December 2008

Mark and myself went to Coire an t-Sneachda see map in the Cairngorms today and joined the crowds looking for something in condition to climb. The temperature in Aviemore was -9c, but as we headed up to the Ski Centre car park it rose to a tropical -3c/4c, which with generally clear skies gave us great weather. Luckily most of the easier gully lines were complete so we opted for Jacobs Ladder, a 110m grade I that seperates The Mess of Pottage from Aladdins Buttress. Jacobs Ladder is the gully sloping to the right (although it is actually vertical seen straight on) in the centre of the picture.

When we arrived at the foot of Jacobs Ladder, there were already three teams in it and one crossing over to a route just to the right of the rocks. Fortuneatly we were out of the wind by then so it turned out to be quite a cozy route!

Looking back down the gully towards Mark, with Coire an t-Sneachda below.

Setting up the final belay before the cornice. Me, just about to climb over the cornice. Mark just about to "top out" of Jacobs Ladder. One last look down Jacobs Ladder at more climbers on their way up, before we headed for Coire Cas, and then down to the Ski Centre. On the way down we spotted a pair Ptarmigan in their winter colours.

For this trip we used the Cairngorm map from the Harvey Superwalker series, and the Cicerone guide to winter climbs in the Cairngorms - both available from Amazon.