Observatory Ridge, Ben Nevis, 30th April 2011

Myself, Lorna and Mke, from Abacus Mountaineering had a top day on the V-Diff, Observatory Ridge on Ben Nevis today. The route is over 420 metres long mixed with sections of scrambling and a few pitches where we were glad of a belay. We had intended to do the North East Buttress, but it was far too windy, so we chose this route as it was more sheltered. 

The route gives you a great view into Tower Gully and across to Tower Ridge. We saw two people set off up the gully, one with skis but never saw where they went after that. Tower Gully is still complete and would make a fine, long ascent to the summit. 

There are a couple of places where you have to think about how you're going to get up some sections, but they all proved not too bad in the end.

The top section of Tower Gully and the last section of Tower Ridge to it's right.

One of only two teams we saw on Tower Ridge today.

High up on the ridge and moving together.

Another little tricky move around and over the snow before regaining the ridge.

Looking straight across to Tower Ridge and the Eastern Traverse cutting from right to left and the fallen block section where the first snmall patch of snow lies on the travrerse.

Yet another little tricky move as we get closer to the final scrambly summit blocks.

One last five metre stretch on spring snow to top out above the ridge a few metres away from the crowds.

Looking back at the busy summit as we made our way to the Red Burn area.

Still plenty of folk on the tourist path as we skirted around the gully tops before striking off for the Red Burn. It's a shame that most visitors to the summit of the Ben don't see any of this yet they are only a hundred metres away!

One final view of the summit before heading off to the halfway lochan and onto the North Face car park. Another brilliant day and made better by our stay in the excellent Braeburn Guest House at Badabrie near Corpach - Fort William.
Also see more pics from Mike's Flickr page at:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/abacusmountaineering/sets/72157626610294371/

Pygmy Ridge, 25th April 2011

Another dry, bright day in the Northern Corries today as myself, Lorna and Mark made the very quiet walk in to Coire an t-Sneachda. Our plan was to do Pygmy Ridge, 100m of Moderate rock climbing on the central pillar of rock you can see in the photo. There are a few ways to get up to it, but we chose to climb the snow apron below the Trident Gullies and take the lower section of Central gully.  

We were hoping not to have to use crampons, just to save the faff factor, and it turned out the snow was just soft enough to kick decent steps and get a good axe placement.

Branching off left up into Central Gully, which is now broken at the narrows where we were two weeks ago. From here it was just a case of choosing a point to step off left onto the band of slabby rocks that lead up to Pygmy Ridge. However we choose to keep going higher to end up level with the foot of the ridge to our left (probably 10 - 15 metres too high), leaving us a slightly awkward travers across loose, broken and greasy rock to the well worn base of the ridge.

The route consists of three sections: firstly, two 35 metre pitches of nice scrambly climbing on grippy rock, although some holds lower down on the first pitch seem to slope away from you! However, it is all quite straightforward, following a loose line up the arete to a recess for the first belay ,and shelter from the now very cold wind! The second pitch from the recess is actually easier and again leads to a similar niche just below where the ridge levels slightly and before the final blocky tower. By now photos were out of the question as it was freezing! At the crest we opted to move together to save time and keep warm, and Lorna lead over the tower and onto the plateau. The above photo really foreshortens the height above the corrie floor as if we're 10 metres off the ground!      

Mark scrambling over the final tower with me trying to keep warm in the sun below. 

Once established on the crest of the tower from the end of the ridge below, it becomes straightforward all the way to the top and gives great views over the top of the Trident Gullies area and across the Fingers Ridge area.  

One final view of Coire an t-Sneachda  and the Fiacaill Ridge before heading down over 1141 to the car. We only saw four other people in the corrie today; two lads heading for the Fiacaill Buttress area (we saw then start a climb bur don't know which) and two ski tourers going up the Goat Track.

Crazy Pinnacles and back, 18th April 2011.

With the snow on the decline (although not completely just yet?), myself and Mark headed to Glencoe to do the Aonach Eagach, or as much as we could get done as we had to be back in Edinburgh by 6pm! The plan was to get as far as the Crazy Pinnacles and then reverse the route. The picture shows Mark contemplating the way down on one of the first two downclimbs at the start of the route.

Not much snow on Ben Nevis, although some of the easier gullies out of view will probably stii be holding some snow.

Looking west down Glencoe.

The first of the crowds behind us staredt to catch up as we stopped for lunch just after the Crazy Pinnacles. 

Downclimbing the pinnacles, in reverse.

Andrew and Rosie, a couple we met on our return leg, climbing one of the chimneys on their way to the pinnacles. Apologies to them for the quality of the photo as it was into the sun!

Andrew and Rosie again in the distance with a fair chunk of the ridge still to do.

Central Gully and Jacobs Ladder, Sunday 10th April 2011.

Glorious spring/alpine weather today in Sneachda as we walked in from the ski car park. From what I could see, only Jacobs Ladder, Alladdins Couloir and Central Gully were complete. The Goat Track also had a few ski tourers going up and skiers/boarders coming down. We saw a team somewhere near the bottom of Fingers Ridge and Fi from Marmotte.co.uk but other than that, very few folk around surprisingly?

It was warm work going up to the start of Central Gully but the snow is still in pretty good condition with the hint of some colder weather to come next week! ?

There is a short section that is down to about a metre wide so we made our way up carefully so as not to break it up. It seemed well frozen underneath though, so hopefully it will remain unbroken for a little while yet. But a little snow would maybe help.

Just about to top out of Central Gully and back into the sun.

We then walked along to the top of Aladdins Couloir and descended to Aladdins Seat for lunch, at which point Fi from Marmotte.co.uk climbed past us. After a brief chat she carried on up to the summit, taking our photo as she did. We continued down making a detour just above the dog leg and traversed across broken ground to the foot of Jacobs Ladder.  

Lorna half way up Jacobs, taken from inside one of the many "bergschrunds" on it's left hand edge.

Still a lot of snow in Jacobs!

And once more into the sun before heading back over 1141 and back to the car to brave the lunatic overtaking antics of some folks on the A9 home!

Last day of the season ? :) April 1st 2011.



A chance break in the weather and some cheap flights gave me the chance to indulge myself in a spot of alpine skiing in Switzerland.

Stunning conditions in the Highlands!

However, for various reasons we didn't go! :( With luck, there may be another month or so of possible gully climbing left if the snow doesn't thaw too fast or become way too soft to be safe (along with the danger of rockfall). Maybe this will be a year of classic summer ridges, scrambling, overnight camps and mountain biking? Form an orderly queue...

Chris Boardman MTB Sport and views on a disappointing winter so far!

Well I finally got a new mountain bike after many months of deliberation! The Boardman range of mountain bikes have been getting good reviews so I finally took the plunge at the weekend. Hopefully this will make up for all the lost weekends due to bad weather, duff forecasts or lack of available climbing partners. Having only been out three times this winter (once was skiing at Glencoe) I'm starting to have second thoughts about winter walking and climbing. Along with the soaring cost of petrol, and the boredom of going solo (and the long drive there and back), it is becoming harder to get anything meaningful acheived.
With this in mind, at least getting out on the bike (again) will fulfill some need for the "great outdoors!"
Sadly I seem to have missed opportunities to tick off winter routes such as Sron na laraig, Curved Ridge, Castle Ridge, and a few of the lower grade gullies in Sneachda (Spiral, Crotched, The Runnel etc).
Winter isn't over yet though, and it is allegedly going to cool down again after this weekends mild temperatures and thaw!

       

Glencoe Ski Conditions, Monday 14th March, 2011.

Met up with Keith and his MTB crew for a day on the slopes at Glencoe.Visibilty was poor for most of the day, but every now and then the sun would threaten to burn through especially at the top. When it did, everyone took advantage and went up a gear until the Haggis Trap, or the Canyon (not as murky) where the fog hadn't cleared. The snow was pretty good though, better at the top but a bit heavy lower down. Powder would maybe the wrong description!  

Hanging on a bit longer at the top of the main basin just in case the sun finally came out!

Looking down to the cafe and the Cliffhanger chair and the chance of some blue sky maybe?
With a forecast of freeze thaw cycles the snow should settle down a bit through the week with the possibility of a top up later on. The car park run was a bit heavy going, although sticking to the right hand side of the fence may have been better!

After a hard run down the black below Creagh Dubh, just too deep and heavy going for me - sorry guys, (probably spoilt with all these groomed pistes in Austria!),we stopped to admire the views as the sun finally came out at the end of the day!
Looking over at the Buchaille we could just see Curved Ridge silhouetted against the Rannoch Wall. Hopefully the snow will consolidate and last into the weekend as it may be my last chance to go for Sron na Laraig, the Aonach Eagach or even Curved Ridge? I would imagine gully lines will be well loaded now and should last for a while yet.

And finally as we were just about to leave the car park , I noticed a boarder really close the stream to the right of the chairlift and thinking he should be careful! Then this happened! Double click for larger screen.

At last! Messing about in Aladdins Couloir - Sunday 27th February 2011.

Well after,waiting all this time for some half decent weather to "happen" on a day that Myself and Mark weren't working, ie a sunday, we finally got some "half decent" weather! To be honest it didn't look promising as we walked into Sneachda with the masses, despite the promise of an improvement later in the day. The corrie was very busy with lots of routes being climbed apart from those with dodgy cornices that have slumped (Jacobs Ladder). I had thought about doing Crotched or Spiral gullies, but there were loads of teams heading up into the Trident Gullies area, so we had a very easy but useful day in Aladdins Couloir refreshing ourselves on some simple ropework - especially in the cold! We could've easily solo'd up but as we haven't been out with the rope for a while it was good to go through the motions in a very sociable and for some of the time, sheltered gully.

         

Not really as steep as it looks!

One of the other two teams that we had a chat too making their way up to the left hand side of Mark. Note the steeper exit just visible through the gap in the rocks.

The other team taking the longer traverse across the top of Aladdins Mirror and on to the plateau. For a little more spice , we took the steeper exit to the left.

Making my way up above the finish of Aladdins Mirror below, and up to Mark's bomb proof belay just below the plateau.

More interesting terrain near the top with patches of ice and rocks to weave your way through.

Climbers belaying and topping out above the Trident Gullies area (ish?).

The Fiacaill Ridge - not completely bare just yet!

Austria skiing videos - Soll, January 2011.

xxxxx