Scottish Winter Conditions, Ben Nevis - The Ledge Route & No4 Gully - 15th March 2015.

How early do you have to get up to get to the Ben for this kind of weather?
0315, that's how early, but it was well worth it. Stunning alpine like conditions all day. The North Face car park was very busy, as was the Ben. We had thought about No 2 Gully, or even Reaburns Easy Route, but then decided The Ledge Route may not keep it's alpine character as long as the gullies would hold their snow, so The Ledge it was.
Always a brilliant at that grade (II) with stunning views across the North Face of Ben Nevis. It was still a bit chilly in the wind at the top, but we thought, well we're here now, we may aswell visit the summit. We passed a handy snow bollard at the top of No 4 Gully on the way up which we reckoned could be useful later. As it was, on our return, we saw a guide and her client abseiling off it, so we promptly followed.
The gully seemed to get steeper lower down after the turn and a little down climbing was needed. After that it was an atmospheric walk past the well hidden (by snow) lochans and down to the CIC Hut.
The coire was echoing with various calls from different teams climbing almost everywhere (except the major gullies which had massive cornices).      

No 5 Gully.

Ian and Willy on the first ramp.

Willy high up on The Ledge Route.

Snow arete up to Carn Dearg. 

Heading up to the summit of the Ben.

The Ledge Route as seen from the summit.  

Spot the climbers in Tower Gap. 

Climber about to top out.

Our trusty snow bollard.

Off the edge of No 4 Gully.

A very easy abseil really. 

Me and Willy below the huge (thankfully very frozen) cornices in No 4 Gully. 

Descending Coire na Ciste. 

The Douglas Boulder and lower section of Tower Ridge. 

Ben Nevis - Ledge Route and Carn Mor Dearg Arete - 12th Januray 2012

A 4.30am start from Edinburgh got us to the North Face car park at about 7.30 ish and already it was filling up fast! A ninety trek up to the CIC Hut was made easier by the new path and soon we were at the foot of No 5 Gully, just in front of the crowds gearing up behind us. It was quite gloomy and the low cloud looked like spoiling the day and with no view of the Carn Mor Dearg arete, we were doubtful as to it's condition and whether it was worth doing?      

Willy heading up towards No 5 Gully across old avalanche debris. 

"Wise man of the mountains". Willy taking in the (gloomy) view at the base of the first ramp.

We took gear and a rope, but the snow was good and the first ramp was well covered including the small step up near the top which was hardly noticeable. 

The whole route was well covered, and after the "wall" section which only bare at its very end, the rocky spine opened out into a fine broad arete before the final steeper section.  

Gordon on the the final section.This is a little steeper but offers no great difficulties with plenty of snow and a brief glimpse of sunshine through the cloud at the top.

At the top of the Ledge Route, Carn Dearg, we made our way around to the summit, passing all the gullies and buttresses and attempting to identify them. The easiest is No 4 Gully seen here. Easy because it has it's (in)famous marker post!  

At this point the cloud lifted to reveal an amazing cloud inversion with views of all the major Ben Nevis landmarks which prompted some frantic happy snapping!  

There were some amazing and very large overhanging cornices on most gullies. This one on No 3 Gully seems to almost draw you in!  

Almost alone on the final slopes to the summit plateau.

Considering the weather and the busy car park, we expected the summit to be alot busier, although I suppose most climbers avoid it if they can.

The Ben Nevis summit shelter surrounded by a sea of snow.

Looking over the north face towards Aonach Mor and the CMD Arete (closest). I was trying to create a broken spectre, bottom left, but I couldn't get close enough to the edge to get my shadow inside it!  

Observatory Ridge, Ben Nevis, 30th April 2011

Myself, Lorna and Mke, from Abacus Mountaineering had a top day on the V-Diff, Observatory Ridge on Ben Nevis today. The route is over 420 metres long mixed with sections of scrambling and a few pitches where we were glad of a belay. We had intended to do the North East Buttress, but it was far too windy, so we chose this route as it was more sheltered. 

The route gives you a great view into Tower Gully and across to Tower Ridge. We saw two people set off up the gully, one with skis but never saw where they went after that. Tower Gully is still complete and would make a fine, long ascent to the summit. 

There are a couple of places where you have to think about how you're going to get up some sections, but they all proved not too bad in the end.

The top section of Tower Gully and the last section of Tower Ridge to it's right.

One of only two teams we saw on Tower Ridge today.

High up on the ridge and moving together.

Another little tricky move around and over the snow before regaining the ridge.

Looking straight across to Tower Ridge and the Eastern Traverse cutting from right to left and the fallen block section where the first snmall patch of snow lies on the travrerse.

Yet another little tricky move as we get closer to the final scrambly summit blocks.

One last five metre stretch on spring snow to top out above the ridge a few metres away from the crowds.

Looking back at the busy summit as we made our way to the Red Burn area.

Still plenty of folk on the tourist path as we skirted around the gully tops before striking off for the Red Burn. It's a shame that most visitors to the summit of the Ben don't see any of this yet they are only a hundred metres away!

One final view of the summit before heading off to the halfway lochan and onto the North Face car park. Another brilliant day and made better by our stay in the excellent Braeburn Guest House at Badabrie near Corpach - Fort William.
Also see more pics from Mike's Flickr page at:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/abacusmountaineering/sets/72157626610294371/

Tower Ridge (at last!), 2nd May 2010

Okay so winter isn't over just yet, and once again the mountain gods were on our side when we met up with Mike Pescod from Abacus Mountaineering with the aim of climbing Tower Ridge on "The Ben".
Also along to observe was James Edwards of High Mountaineering so we had quite a pleasant and sociable day and we managed to pick up some tips and onfo, along with a recap of the basic crevasse rescue system. This meant James hanging off the edge of Number 4 Gully whilst we attempted to pull him up!
We passed one team en route and saw a few folks out and about; one team heading up near Number 3 or 4 Gully, another in the Tower Gully area and Number 2 Gully Buttress-ish. Also on the way across "The Gap" we saw a team down below Glovers Chimney, and when we descended Number 4 there was a team in North Gully; so there's still things to go for for a few weeks yet so long as there's a nice frost!

  

Tower Ridge in profile with Tower Gap high up in the centre of the picture.

James and Mike climbing the first chimney section out of the Douglas gap, which had a little snow near it's top but otherwise was just wet and greasy.

At the top of the first climbing section, about Diff/V Diff ish depending how wet it is?

Looking across Coire na Ciste to Number 4 Gully just right of centre and to it's left the grade I North Gully - one for the future I think (along with Tower Gully).

Lorna, myself and James just after we passed the onl;y people we saw on the ridge.

 

Heading up towards the Great Tower, before we go to it's left for the winter route and the Eastern Traverse.

Making our way around the entertaining Eastern Traverse, with quite a big drop beneath out feet!

  

Above the (blocked by snow) fallen block or cave section as it is sometimes known.

A quick rest whilst we contemplate the crossing of Tower Gap!

We sent James across first to take care of photographic duties!

Trying to look graceful as you lower yourself down off the block and into the gap - not.
(double click the vids to get full size).

The method used to cross the gap and not easily seen on the video is to stand on the edge of the smaller block you drop down onto, then keeping your feet firmly in place, fall forwards and place your hands on the far side of the gap, find some holds (haha) and step (scrape in crampons) up and out of the gap - easy!

Looking back down to the narrow section with Tower Gap just behind James.

At the top with Mr "P".

Looking across to the crowds on the summit.
After a spot of lunch over looking the coire, we stopped above Number 4 Gully to practice some basic crevasse rescue systems and then descended the gully itself and then back down to the car park.

 

One final zoom shot of a team crossing Tower Gap (about 900metres-ish up).