Ben Nevis - Ledge Route and Carn Mor Dearg Arete - 12th Januray 2012

A 4.30am start from Edinburgh got us to the North Face car park at about 7.30 ish and already it was filling up fast! A ninety trek up to the CIC Hut was made easier by the new path and soon we were at the foot of No 5 Gully, just in front of the crowds gearing up behind us. It was quite gloomy and the low cloud looked like spoiling the day and with no view of the Carn Mor Dearg arete, we were doubtful as to it's condition and whether it was worth doing?      

Willy heading up towards No 5 Gully across old avalanche debris. 

"Wise man of the mountains". Willy taking in the (gloomy) view at the base of the first ramp.

We took gear and a rope, but the snow was good and the first ramp was well covered including the small step up near the top which was hardly noticeable. 

The whole route was well covered, and after the "wall" section which only bare at its very end, the rocky spine opened out into a fine broad arete before the final steeper section.  

Gordon on the the final section.This is a little steeper but offers no great difficulties with plenty of snow and a brief glimpse of sunshine through the cloud at the top.

At the top of the Ledge Route, Carn Dearg, we made our way around to the summit, passing all the gullies and buttresses and attempting to identify them. The easiest is No 4 Gully seen here. Easy because it has it's (in)famous marker post!  

At this point the cloud lifted to reveal an amazing cloud inversion with views of all the major Ben Nevis landmarks which prompted some frantic happy snapping!  

There were some amazing and very large overhanging cornices on most gullies. This one on No 3 Gully seems to almost draw you in!  

Almost alone on the final slopes to the summit plateau.

Considering the weather and the busy car park, we expected the summit to be alot busier, although I suppose most climbers avoid it if they can.

The Ben Nevis summit shelter surrounded by a sea of snow.

Looking over the north face towards Aonach Mor and the CMD Arete (closest). I was trying to create a broken spectre, bottom left, but I couldn't get close enough to the edge to get my shadow inside it!  

Glenshee - skiing, 5th February 2012.

Top of the Tiger chair (Cairnwell), open at last!

The new Baddoch chairlift saves some time getting up to the Cairnwell Cafe.

Looking back across to the Cairnwell and the racetrack from the top of Butcharts Poma.



Caenlochan poma up to Coire Fionn.



Looking somewhere back towards the Spittal from the Caenlochan poma.

Trying to ski and film going down the gully at the bottom of Coire Fionn!

Where is Curved Ridge!? 29th Janaury 2012.

After a dark-o-clock start, myself, Gordon, Mark and Willy arrived at the Lagangarbh car park at about 0715. We kitted up in the dark and set off in search of Curved Ridge. As we walked in and it became light we started to get a little concerned about actually finding the start in the very low hill fog that was shrouding the Buchaille. Having done Curved Ridge several times in summer, we knew it can be a bit tricky at the best of times to spot it from below (it's easy from the road though!).   

A brief stop in the gloom by the Waterslide Slab. Even here visibility was still poor.  Our first mistake was to go a little too far past the slab before ascending and heading back right to end up above it. However giving the very poor visibility, I'm not sure we would've found the base of the route that easily anyhow. As it was it soon became clear (and so did visibility - briefly) that we were too far left with the possibility of ending up on D Gully Buttress. In the end, discretion became the better part of valour and we traversed and descended back to the Waterslide area of the mountain, still with no clear view of anything above us.
As it was, we had the ropes out and placed the odd runner here and there to keep things safe, plus a belay or two for some tricky "lowers", and eventually made our way back to the car.   

     

We decided to stop at the Kings House Hotel for a refreshment almost got a clear view of the Buchaille in the company of a Deer Stag in the hotel car park!
As they say, you win some, you lose some and in the end we did the right thing by not blindly continuing up onto to possibly more dangerous ground. 

Deer Stag keeping a close eye on us whilst he poses for the camera!

Images from Soll, January 2012

Bluebird day over the Hohe Salve, in Soll.

Fresh tracks under the Stockl Lift - Ski Welt.

Making fresh tracks in a natural (ish) halfpipe near Soll in Austria.

Amazing amounts of artificial snow to ride over!

Lorna, Lenny and myself enjoying a drink below the Hohe Salve - Hochsoll. 

The wee ones showing no fear.

Lenny winning first prize overall at the ski school!

A very quiet home run down to Soll, before the tea time carnage starts!

Icicles...

The Runnel, Coire an t-Sneachda, 8th Januray 2012

The forecast suggested east would be best, so myself and Mark took a trip to the northern corries to see what was available. The temperature was about 4-5c at the car park which wasn't good, although there was some ice underfoot on the way in to Coire an t-Sneachda. It was clear that most of the corrie was bare, but some of the gully lines still seemed complete.       

There were still quite a few people about though, with several winter skills parties doing their thing in various slopes around the corrie. We saw and heard teams heading for the Mess of Pottage area, some around Aladdin's Mirror and a few in the Trident gullies. Also some teams below Fiacaill Buttress and some hardy souls on Fiacaill Ridge hoping to beat the forecasted increase in wind later in the day.

Originally the plan was to go for Spiral Gully, but I couldn't see if it was complete and wasn't too sure of the start of the route. I saw a team in Crotched Gully which looked a little bare in the middle where it bears right. It may have been possible to cut across right from there to get into Spiral, but again I wasn't sure if it it was complete. So we decided on Central Gully after gearing up at the stretcher box. We headed up the snow bay to the start of the route when I realised we should've gone left into to bay that leads up to Central Left Hand. So we were in The Runnel now! I didn't tell Mark till higher up but it was all straightforward enough.

      

Looking back down The Runnel now that we were committed to doing it. Although the wasn't any neve to speak of, the snow was steppy with enough grip to stop it giving way on every step.  

We moved together for practice, placing runners on the way up until we reached the team in front who were belaying a little way below the crux chimney. From here the snow became a mix of just snow, snow-ice or ice which made the route more interesting.   

We chose to belay at the very bottom of the chimney, just to the right, to avoid any falling bits. The chimney was entertaining stuff for our level, with grooves of either ice or snow-ice to climb, and the occasional rock placement for axe or feet. 

Looking down after the first icy, bulge section, where it eases of a little.

Looking up at the final icy step (more to the right) which leads to easier angled ground as the gully opens up onto the plateau. Again this was good fun with views to the climbs left and right as you gain height.   

Fortunately due to the wind scoured summit, it was easy to find a rock belay and sit in comfort as I brought Mark up. However the wind was just starting to pick up, so we had a quick bite to eat before we struggle our way over to 1141 and down to the car park. 

Belayer at the top of Central Left Hand (I think?).

Broken ankle to skiing in 4 months!

This was Lorna, Just over four months ago in hospital in Switzerland after the accident on the NNE Ridge of the Eginner above Saas Fee. Back then we weren't sure just how much of a recovery Lorna would make, especially when you see the dramatic pictures of the external fixator and then the scars and stitches from the operations. We also have to mention the excellent work of the doctors and nurses in Visp hospital where the treatment was first class!

One of many gruesome photos that have been taken since the accident! It's hard to believe that someone would be able to stand on an ankle in this state. However, in June 2012, Lorna hopes to take part in the Cateran Yomp to walk either 22, 36 or 54 miles in 24 hours to raise money for soldiers charities. You can sponsor her here : Cateran Yomp.    



And now this! Although don't be misled. It is an amazing recovery so far, but ironically, skiing is easier than walking at the moment! Training for the Cateran Yomp may be much harder, plus we have the North East Buttress of the Ben still to do this year??? 

Glenshee, 18th December 2011

A last minute decision  meant myself and Ian headed for Glenshee today for a half days skiing. Ruth and Lorna, speant most of day between the two cafes drinking hot chocolate! Looking up the new (not yet working) Badoch Chair. However, a fantastic (half) days skiing! 

Looking across to the sunnyside.

Glorious sunshine on the way up the double poma.

Ian (in red) behind me and the Cairnwell side bathed in late sunshine too.

Ian recovering from a wipeout at the bottom of Coire Fionn. He got me back later when I did a face plant at the bottom of Butcharts!

Glas Maol poma not open yet, sadly.

The view from the Cairnwell cafe window.

New "liftie"!

Kodak moments on top of the Cairnwell T-bar.

From the top of the Cairnwell T-bar looking across to the Sunnyside.