Information and photos of my mountaineering trips in Scotland,England and Wales: Including hillwalking,scrambling and easy rock climbing.Also via ferrata, skiing and alpine trips in Europe.
An absolutely stunning day in Glencoe today with Gordon, Ian and Willy. From what we could gather from various blogs, and information on UKC, the Aonach Eagach seemed to have lost much of it's snow. So we went for the grade II (III ?) Easy Gully (between Curved Ridge and the Rannoch Wall). The path from Lagangarbh was icey in places and some of the rock steps you normally fly up on the way to Curved Ridge were quite tricky with ice, big boots and big gloves! On the way, we passed the Waterslide Slab which had a nice ice curtain on it.
In hindsight, it may have been better to head straight up through various snow patches as if heading for Crowberry Gully, as the normal round-about summer route was a bit of a waste of time! However, we got ourselves up to the crowberry basin and struck left for Easy Gully, with the Rannoch Wall towering above us to the right.
We only saw four people in or around the gully all day. Two headed left onto Curved Ridge itself. The other two joined higher up before the narrow ice pitch and we met them again at the cairn.
Ian and Gordon looking for gear before we headed up to the narrow ice section just right of centre.
Gordon, with Ian just behind (Willy out of shot) above the narrow section with the Rannoch Wall to the left and the A82 way below.
Ian on his way up to the crest of Curved Ridge.
We sat by the cairn marking the end of the ridge and chatted with the two climbers who had left the gully to come up the ridge. After more food, we sorted the gear out and moved together up the snow basin and then right to go up behind Crowberry Tower.
Willy in Crowberry Tower Gap, belaying for Ian.
Gordon heading up to the gap with Glen Etive behind.
Never can find the right name of this gully between the tower and main summit?
Looking over Buachaille Etive Beag towards the Ballachulish Bridge.
Ben Nevis and Carn Mor Dearg Arete in the late afternoon sun.
Sun set, as seen from Buachaille Etive Mor.
Finally the long descent back to the car down Coire na Tulaich.
The stars must have been in alignment this weekend as we were treated to a foot of fresh snow and alpine weather in the west of Scotland. Lorna and myself arrived at a very busy North Face car park just before 8.30am and had to park some way down the track as even more cars arrived.
By the time we had walked up to the CIC Hut, the sun was out and most folks were down to one or two layers. The fresh snow made the plod from the hut up to Number 5 Gully to get to grade II Ledge Route quite hard work, and there were already signs of avalanche debris just left of the gully. Plenty of loose snow was also running off the buttresses to the right of No 5 too. The gully itself wasn't too bad although there seemed to be debris higher up past the first ramp at 50m on the right. Once we were established on the route (along with the other dozen or so in front and the ones behind) it was fairly straightforward and the snow conditions didn't cause any problems on the way to the top of Carn Dearg at 1214m.
Looking up into Coire na Ciste with No3 Gully in the centre and No5 Gully on the right.
Teams of climbers heading up to the base of No5 Gully.
Looking back down at the CIC Hut from No5 Gully.
The first ramp off to the right, 50m up No5 Gully - not quite as exposed as it looks especially on good snow!
Tower Ridge from the Ledge Route. A team of climbers can just be seen on the crest of the ridge, just to the right of the Douglas Gap.
Lorna in the "gully" section of the route just after the first ramp.
The way ahead with teams in front having just negotiated the tricky rocks in the centre of the picture.
The "wall" section behind Lorna with an interesting drop on the other side!
France, Switzerland, Austria?
Our fist view of the summit plateau from the top of Carn Dearg and the end of the route.
360' View from Carn Dearg.
Fresh tracks (up or down?) No4 Gully. We considered going down, but as the weather was so good we decided to head for the summit of the Ben first and decide where to go from there.
No4 again with Carn Mor Deag and the CMD Arete across the corrie.
Lunch!
The highest (Cadbury) Cream Eggs in Britain possibly, although there were a few chocolate bunnies around!
Not sure what that face is meant to be? However with the good weather continueing and the chance of never getting it like this again, we set off South East-ish to head for the Carn Mor Dearg Arete (CMD).
The slope in the foreground of the picture is normally a nightmare of a boulder field to descend but today it was completely covered with snow and cornices way to the left on the head of Coire Leis.
From here the ridge became quite narrow with a track only the width of two boots to walk along.
Some hardy souls (just right of centre) can be seen making their way up to the summit.
Looking back along the ridge with the North East Buttress on the right.
Our final view of the ridge before descending to the path along the Allt a' Mhuilinn and then back to the North Face car park to complete a long but brilliant day.
Of course if you're looking for the ultimate place for peace and quiet, you should try Ben Nevis, especially by the "tourist route"! As Britain's highest mountain, it attracts all types of visitors, most of them probably without a Ben Nevis Map. So be prepared for a cultural and fashion shock as you slog up the uninspiring, almost paved track to the boulder strewn plateau, probably to met by this;
as we found, on our first ever trip up the Ben! There were easily a hundred or more "3 peakers" milling around in the gloom, and quite scarily as we discovered on later trips, most seemed unaware of the near vertical drop only of the North East face just metres from the trig point! Of course they had every right to be there, it just felt like the world and his dog were up there. But it did reinforce the need to carry a good Ben Nevis Map, such as the Harveys Superwalker series.
All this aside, tackling the Ben is still a rewarding day out , albeit a bit of a slog, especially once on the "zig zags" to the summit. However, be aware of the fickle nature of the mountain and go prepared. This does not mean jeans, trainers, bin liner and a Ginsters pastie! I'm sure some of the "quality nylon sportswear" crowd look at us in Goretex and 3 season boots and think we're overdressed. But then we're not cold and have dry feet! Remember, even as late as June/July you could be faced with this as the summit.
It can be too easy to stray too far left (on ascent) into Gardyloo Gully, so be aware and take a map! A good choice is the Harveys Superwalker series, which has a detailed Ben Nevis summit map.
For a more interesting trip, and view of Ben Nevis, then competent walkers with a head for heights should consider climbing by means of the Carn Mor Dearg Arete (CMD). Although a longer day out with luck you will be rewarded with views like this. (more to come in my next post).
If you've tried the tourist path to the top of Ben Nevis, you probably never want to go there again, or wonder if there is a more exciting way to climb Britains highest mountain (apart from "actually" climbing it!). Well there is. You can either park at the Nevis Rage Ski Centre and head SW following forest tracks to grid 147752. Or park at grid 145765 and follow tracks to 147752. I findusing a Harveys Map much easier as their 1:25000 scale is easier to read! From here, head SE along the Alt a' Mhuilinn, crossing the deer fence on the way.
Soon you will see Carn Beag Dearg on your left leading to Carn Dearg Meadhonach, and then the Munro, Carn Mor Dearg at 1220m. At some point (slightly vague) strike off east to start the slog up Carn Beag Dearg. Persevere as once you reach the first top, a little more climbing leads you onto the Munro and the ridge itself. As you move along the airy, but fairly easy Grade 1 scramble (a head for heights is useful although there is plenty of protection amongst the rocks if you don't want to stay on the crest), you will get stunning views of the North East Face of Ben Nevis.
The Carn Mor Dearg Arete (CMD), is a stunning place to be in good weather, but be aware of strong winds that would make i an altogether different day out! These photos were taken in mid June and although the ridge was mostly free of snow, as you see, some of the gully's and the summit still had a couple of feet of snow.
As you can see above, it is wise, even in June to stay away from any steep snow or possible cornices. However this was the only snow on the ridge and caused no problem. As we moved along, the cloud would break giving us tantalising glimpses of the route ahead.
As you can see the ridge swings round to the right (SW) for the final steep clamber up the boulder field to the summit. It is important not to stray too far NW as this leads to steeper ground above Coire Leis. There are several poles marking the route up which are useful, especially in poor weather. The summit itself can be a bit disappointing, but if you get the views then this route wins hands down. From the trig point you will get a cracking view of Tower Ridge with it's infamous gap.
Again, knowledge of using a map and compass is essential whilst negotiating the summit. It is too easy to get captivated by either the view or the near vertical drop on the NE face. Here too the Harveys Map comes into it's own, with it's 1:25000 enlarged summit map. From here you can either retrace your steps, or follow the bearings shown on the map, (not the guy in jeans and trainers!) across the plateau and follow the zig zags to the track junction at 145724, above Lochan Meal an t-Suidhe, and then head north to the deer fence you crossed earlier (at some point you have to cross the Alt a' Mhuilinn). BE AWARE of cornices on Gardyloo Gully, Tower Gully and No 2 Gully to the north, and Five Finger Gully to the south, even in June as below.
as we found, on our first ever trip up the Ben! There were easily a hundred or more "3 peakers" milling around in the gloom, and quite scarily as we discovered on later trips, most seemed unaware of the near vertical drop only of the North East face just metres from the trig point! Of course they had every right to be there, it just felt like the world and his dog were up there. But it did reinforce the need to carry a good Ben Nevis Map, such as the Harveys Superwalker series.
All this aside, tackling the Ben is still a rewarding day out , albeit a bit of a slog, especially once on the "zig zags" to the summit. However, be aware of the fickle nature of the mountain and go prepared. This does not mean jeans, trainers, bin liner and a Ginsters pastie! I'm sure some of the "quality nylon sportswear" crowd look at us in Goretex and 3 season boots and think we're overdressed. But then we're not cold and have dry feet! Remember, even as late as June/July you could be faced with this as the summit. 
The Carn Mor Dearg Arete (CMD), is a stunning place to be in good weather, but be aware of strong winds that would make i an altogether different day out! These photos were taken in mid June and although the ridge was mostly free of snow, as you see, some of the gully's and the summit still had a couple of feet of snow.
Again, knowledge of using a map and compass is essential whilst negotiating the summit. It is too easy to get captivated by either the view or the near vertical drop on the NE face. Here too the Harveys Map comes into it's own, with it's 1:25000 enlarged summit map. From here you can either retrace your steps, or follow the bearings shown on the map, (not the guy in jeans and trainers!) across the plateau and follow the zig zags to the track junction at 145724, above Lochan Meal an t-Suidhe, and then head north to the deer fence you crossed earlier (at some point you have to cross the Alt a' Mhuilinn). BE AWARE of cornices on Gardyloo Gully, Tower Gully and No 2 Gully to the north, and Five Finger Gully to the south, even in June as below.