Tower Ridge (at last!), 2nd May 2010

Okay so winter isn't over just yet, and once again the mountain gods were on our side when we met up with Mike Pescod from Abacus Mountaineering with the aim of climbing Tower Ridge on "The Ben".
Also along to observe was James Edwards of High Mountaineering so we had quite a pleasant and sociable day and we managed to pick up some tips and onfo, along with a recap of the basic crevasse rescue system. This meant James hanging off the edge of Number 4 Gully whilst we attempted to pull him up!
We passed one team en route and saw a few folks out and about; one team heading up near Number 3 or 4 Gully, another in the Tower Gully area and Number 2 Gully Buttress-ish. Also on the way across "The Gap" we saw a team down below Glovers Chimney, and when we descended Number 4 there was a team in North Gully; so there's still things to go for for a few weeks yet so long as there's a nice frost!

  

Tower Ridge in profile with Tower Gap high up in the centre of the picture.

James and Mike climbing the first chimney section out of the Douglas gap, which had a little snow near it's top but otherwise was just wet and greasy.

At the top of the first climbing section, about Diff/V Diff ish depending how wet it is?

Looking across Coire na Ciste to Number 4 Gully just right of centre and to it's left the grade I North Gully - one for the future I think (along with Tower Gully).

Lorna, myself and James just after we passed the onl;y people we saw on the ridge.

 

Heading up towards the Great Tower, before we go to it's left for the winter route and the Eastern Traverse.

Making our way around the entertaining Eastern Traverse, with quite a big drop beneath out feet!

  

Above the (blocked by snow) fallen block or cave section as it is sometimes known.

A quick rest whilst we contemplate the crossing of Tower Gap!

We sent James across first to take care of photographic duties!

Trying to look graceful as you lower yourself down off the block and into the gap - not.
(double click the vids to get full size).

The method used to cross the gap and not easily seen on the video is to stand on the edge of the smaller block you drop down onto, then keeping your feet firmly in place, fall forwards and place your hands on the far side of the gap, find some holds (haha) and step (scrape in crampons) up and out of the gap - easy!

Looking back down to the narrow section with Tower Gap just behind James.

At the top with Mr "P".

Looking across to the crowds on the summit.
After a spot of lunch over looking the coire, we stopped above Number 4 Gully to practice some basic crevasse rescue systems and then descended the gully itself and then back down to the car park.

 

One final zoom shot of a team crossing Tower Gap (about 900metres-ish up).

CMD Arete (the best way up Ben Nevis!)

If you've tried the tourist path to the top of Ben Nevis, you probably never want to go there again, or wonder if there is a more exciting way to climb Britains highest mountain (apart from "actually" climbing it!). Well there is. You can either park at the Nevis Rage Ski Centre and head SW following forest tracks to grid 147752. Or park at grid 145765 and follow tracks to 147752. I findusing a Harveys Map much easier as their 1:25000 scale is easier to read! From here, head SE along the Alt a' Mhuilinn, crossing the deer fence on the way.

Soon you will see Carn Beag Dearg on your left leading to Carn Dearg Meadhonach, and then the Munro, Carn Mor Dearg at 1220m. At some point (slightly vague) strike off east to start the slog up Carn Beag Dearg. Persevere as once you reach the first top, a little more climbing leads you onto the Munro and the ridge itself. As you move along the airy, but fairly easy Grade 1 scramble (a head for heights is useful although there is plenty of protection amongst the rocks if you don't want to stay on the crest), you will get stunning views of the North East Face of Ben Nevis.

The Carn Mor Dearg Arete (CMD), is a stunning place to be in good weather, but be aware of strong winds that would make i an altogether different day out! These photos were taken in mid June and although the ridge was mostly free of snow, as you see, some of the gully's and the summit still had a couple of feet of snow.

As you can see above, it is wise, even in June to stay away from any steep snow or possible cornices. However this was the only snow on the ridge and caused no problem. As we moved along, the cloud would break giving us tantalising glimpses of the route ahead.

As you can see the ridge swings round to the right (SW) for the final steep clamber up the boulder field to the summit. It is important not to stray too far NW as this leads to steeper ground above Coire Leis. There are several poles marking the route up which are useful, especially in poor weather. The summit itself can be a bit disappointing, but if you get the views then this route wins hands down. From the trig point you will get a cracking view of Tower Ridge with it's infamous gap. Again, knowledge of using a map and compass is essential whilst negotiating the summit. It is too easy to get captivated by either the view or the near vertical drop on the NE face. Here too the Harveys Map comes into it's own, with it's 1:25000 enlarged summit map. From here you can either retrace your steps, or follow the bearings shown on the map, (not the guy in jeans and trainers!) across the plateau and follow the zig zags to the track junction at 145724, above Lochan Meal an t-Suidhe, and then head north to the deer fence you crossed earlier (at some point you have to cross the Alt a' Mhuilinn). BE AWARE of cornices on Gardyloo Gully, Tower Gully and No 2 Gully to the north, and Five Finger Gully to the south, even in June as below.