The Runnel, Coire an t-Sneachda, 8th Januray 2012

The forecast suggested east would be best, so myself and Mark took a trip to the northern corries to see what was available. The temperature was about 4-5c at the car park which wasn't good, although there was some ice underfoot on the way in to Coire an t-Sneachda. It was clear that most of the corrie was bare, but some of the gully lines still seemed complete.       

There were still quite a few people about though, with several winter skills parties doing their thing in various slopes around the corrie. We saw and heard teams heading for the Mess of Pottage area, some around Aladdin's Mirror and a few in the Trident gullies. Also some teams below Fiacaill Buttress and some hardy souls on Fiacaill Ridge hoping to beat the forecasted increase in wind later in the day.

Originally the plan was to go for Spiral Gully, but I couldn't see if it was complete and wasn't too sure of the start of the route. I saw a team in Crotched Gully which looked a little bare in the middle where it bears right. It may have been possible to cut across right from there to get into Spiral, but again I wasn't sure if it it was complete. So we decided on Central Gully after gearing up at the stretcher box. We headed up the snow bay to the start of the route when I realised we should've gone left into to bay that leads up to Central Left Hand. So we were in The Runnel now! I didn't tell Mark till higher up but it was all straightforward enough.

      

Looking back down The Runnel now that we were committed to doing it. Although the wasn't any neve to speak of, the snow was steppy with enough grip to stop it giving way on every step.  

We moved together for practice, placing runners on the way up until we reached the team in front who were belaying a little way below the crux chimney. From here the snow became a mix of just snow, snow-ice or ice which made the route more interesting.   

We chose to belay at the very bottom of the chimney, just to the right, to avoid any falling bits. The chimney was entertaining stuff for our level, with grooves of either ice or snow-ice to climb, and the occasional rock placement for axe or feet. 

Looking down after the first icy, bulge section, where it eases of a little.

Looking up at the final icy step (more to the right) which leads to easier angled ground as the gully opens up onto the plateau. Again this was good fun with views to the climbs left and right as you gain height.   

Fortunately due to the wind scoured summit, it was easy to find a rock belay and sit in comfort as I brought Mark up. However the wind was just starting to pick up, so we had a quick bite to eat before we struggle our way over to 1141 and down to the car park. 

Belayer at the top of Central Left Hand (I think?).