Scottish Winter Conditions, Ben Nevis - The Ledge Route & No4 Gully - 15th March 2015.

How early do you have to get up to get to the Ben for this kind of weather?
0315, that's how early, but it was well worth it. Stunning alpine like conditions all day. The North Face car park was very busy, as was the Ben. We had thought about No 2 Gully, or even Reaburns Easy Route, but then decided The Ledge Route may not keep it's alpine character as long as the gullies would hold their snow, so The Ledge it was.
Always a brilliant at that grade (II) with stunning views across the North Face of Ben Nevis. It was still a bit chilly in the wind at the top, but we thought, well we're here now, we may aswell visit the summit. We passed a handy snow bollard at the top of No 4 Gully on the way up which we reckoned could be useful later. As it was, on our return, we saw a guide and her client abseiling off it, so we promptly followed.
The gully seemed to get steeper lower down after the turn and a little down climbing was needed. After that it was an atmospheric walk past the well hidden (by snow) lochans and down to the CIC Hut.
The coire was echoing with various calls from different teams climbing almost everywhere (except the major gullies which had massive cornices).      

No 5 Gully.

Ian and Willy on the first ramp.

Willy high up on The Ledge Route.

Snow arete up to Carn Dearg. 

Heading up to the summit of the Ben.

The Ledge Route as seen from the summit.  

Spot the climbers in Tower Gap. 

Climber about to top out.

Our trusty snow bollard.

Off the edge of No 4 Gully.

A very easy abseil really. 

Me and Willy below the huge (thankfully very frozen) cornices in No 4 Gully. 

Descending Coire na Ciste. 

The Douglas Boulder and lower section of Tower Ridge. 

Aonach Eagach, Glencoe - 29th June 2014.

At last, good weather in Scotland and a chance to revisit the Aonach Eagach. This would include Ruth's 5th munro, Meall Dearg, and 4th Munro, Sgorr nam Fiannaidh (left) to do, and Lorna's first real return to scrambling. 

Looking down Glencoe.

Ben Nevis, almost free of snow    .

The first down climb, which is easier than it looks, or how it's described in some books. 

Looking back up at the down climb.

It's probably easier to slip on the slabby bits covered in loose stuff. 

The team up into to sun.

Cracking view of the ridge to come.

One of the many pinnacles to negotiate. 

And another.

And another.

More ridge to come.

Even more ridge!

Looking back over the route.

The last of the snow hanging on in the gullies and corries.

Sgorr nam Fiannaidh. Only three more Munro's to go now for Ruth.

Some of the Aonach Eagach as seen from Glencoe.

Glenoce, looking East.

Scottish snow conditions - 3rd Annual, "Not Quite Touching The Void", Ben Nevis summit camp - 31st May 2014.

All the essential kit required for an overnight camp on the summit of Ben Nevis!  

Jon and Willy, on the track up to the top, North Face car park. Once we'd crossed the Alt a Mhuilin by the wier, we headed crfoss country to the Half Way Lochan. 

Stunning views on the way up, especially over to the Ring of Steal. Note the arrows on the path. These were for the folks taking part in the Rat Race.  

Usual messy snow to cross near and around Gardyloo Gully and the summit.

Luckily, there was just enough snow in between the ruins to get the tent in and away from the passing hordes. Sadly the litter issue is a big problem. There are, jackets, trousers. pants(!), towels, beer cans, champagne bottles, plastic bottles etc everywhere. There were even 2 Asda carrier bags, that were full of rubbish, but thoughtfully tied shut, below the summit shelter. The inside of the shelter is also in a mess.    

On a brighter note, we watched a team of three cross Tower Gap on Tower Ridge: though they did seem to take an interesting line on the exit side of the gap! 

Climbers in Tower Gap. Note the sloping ramp on the left of the gap: the route they took. 

Occaisionally, runners from the Rat Race would arrive at the manned checkpoint at the summit cairn, but eventually, the place quietened down, so I went for a wander over to the North East Buttress end of the plateau.  

Looking back over the North Face from somewhere near the top of Observatory Ridge. 

Hardly any snow left on the CMD Arete, as seen from the top of the North East Buttress.

As the crowds disappeared, and the temperature dropped a little, we got a brief glimpse of a sunset in the distance. The clouds soon cam in though and we were once again alone in the mist. Apart from the guy at the checkpoint, who left at 11pm.  

After a reasonable night, with only a few noisy, excitable folks who'd made it to the top, we struck camp and headed for No 4 Gully. There is still a lot of snow all around the rim of the plateau and gullies to be aware of, especially in the gloomy conditions. No 3 Gully above.    

We had already put on crampons in the hope of descending No 4 Gully, but it was not to be. There was no actual cornice, but a vertical wall of snow, about 3/4 meters. Then a few crack, hole and bergshrund type features, making it too dodgy to attempt to belly flop down onto carrying large packs!     

A rope would've made all the difference in confidence. Once over the difficulties, it would've been straightforward down climbing until the angle eased off. It looked like I wasn't going to use my new DMM Raptors this time around?

The only remaining option was to bumslide the Red Burn, which still complete to just above the waterfall on the bend.

All good fun and much quicker than going down the zig zags.

The last part of the Red Burn down to the waterfall. Always entertaining sliding past the zig zags as peaople slog up, or down the path.