Scottish Winter Conditions, Ben Nevis - The Ledge Route & No4 Gully - 15th March 2015.

How early do you have to get up to get to the Ben for this kind of weather?
0315, that's how early, but it was well worth it. Stunning alpine like conditions all day. The North Face car park was very busy, as was the Ben. We had thought about No 2 Gully, or even Reaburns Easy Route, but then decided The Ledge Route may not keep it's alpine character as long as the gullies would hold their snow, so The Ledge it was.
Always a brilliant at that grade (II) with stunning views across the North Face of Ben Nevis. It was still a bit chilly in the wind at the top, but we thought, well we're here now, we may aswell visit the summit. We passed a handy snow bollard at the top of No 4 Gully on the way up which we reckoned could be useful later. As it was, on our return, we saw a guide and her client abseiling off it, so we promptly followed.
The gully seemed to get steeper lower down after the turn and a little down climbing was needed. After that it was an atmospheric walk past the well hidden (by snow) lochans and down to the CIC Hut.
The coire was echoing with various calls from different teams climbing almost everywhere (except the major gullies which had massive cornices).      

No 5 Gully.

Ian and Willy on the first ramp.

Willy high up on The Ledge Route.

Snow arete up to Carn Dearg. 

Heading up to the summit of the Ben.

The Ledge Route as seen from the summit.  

Spot the climbers in Tower Gap. 

Climber about to top out.

Our trusty snow bollard.

Off the edge of No 4 Gully.

A very easy abseil really. 

Me and Willy below the huge (thankfully very frozen) cornices in No 4 Gully. 

Descending Coire na Ciste. 

The Douglas Boulder and lower section of Tower Ridge. 

Highest wild camp in Britain - Ben Nevis summit, 14th-15th April 2012.

After lots of talk and crazy ideas, I finally realised an ambition of mine to camp on the summit of Ben Nevis this weekend. Myself and Ian left the North Face car park at about 3pm (ish) on Saturday afternoon and headed up to the top car park, from where we struck off up to the Halfway Lochan to gain the tourist path. At this point, the forecast, "isolated snow flurries and light winds" started! We didn't see that many folk, just onr guide and his clients coming down after climbing "Good Friday", I think and  two guys who'd done "Gardyloo Gully". Everyone else was the usual mixed bag the prepared and not so...     

Ian approaching a gloomy, deserted summit.After the Red Burn, the snow became more consolidated, but once off the zig-zags the going became heavier with a slight crust over a softer layer making the going (with a large pack) really hard work. At one point it almost became map reading time as the cloud closed in, until we spotted the next cairn and avoided the faff of navigating in bad weather! You have to wonder, is it foolhardy or brave for the "samba/jeans/anorak" crowds to go out there in such changeable conditions? I know my view, but they must look as incredulously at us (in our finest), as we do at them in their sports-fashion outfits!     

An even gloomier, deserted summit. Not the clear skies and stunning views we had hoped for. We did see a couple more climbers just topping out on Tower Ridge at about 7 - 7.30pm, and then two more that seemed to come from the North East Buttress/Observatory Ridge area and passed our tent as they (had to now with the visibility) navigated their way off the plateau. Once we had the tent pitched and extra layers on, it was into the sleeping bags and time to cook. Phoning home had to be done over by the Trig Point, which was a bit nippy in the wind, and then run back to the tent! Around 8.30 ish a group of "Three peakers", arrived at the summit so we spoke to them for a while from the comfort of our tent, before we wished them farewell.   

After dinner (ready mix pasta, hot chocolate and a flapjack), we decided to take a look outside the see if visibility had improved, and to walk off dinner! Sadly, there was still lots of broken cloud, although some stars could be seen. No lights down at the CIC Hut, but Corpach was visible. The wind still came and went and it was hard to tell if it was actually snowing or just spindrift. The after dinner walk, consisted of peering over the edge into Tower Gully and running round the summit shelter a few times - mainly to keep warm!      

After a "cool", but not too uncomfortable night (2 baselayers, 2 pairs of thermal leggings, 2 pairs of socks, down gillet, belay jacket inside the bag with my feet in it, hat and gloves) on my self de-flating mattress, I eventually got up around 7.30 am. The sun had been up since 6, or earlier, but it was a little warmer in my sleeping bag than a few hours prior so I had a lie in. A quick breakfast of flapjacks, chocolate and banana in hot milk, was followed by another jog around the summit shelter to get the blood flowing! 

My early morning view from the tent door. At this point some more 3 peakers arrived, but with a difference. They were cycling between all 3 peaks, and then riding to London in time to do the Marathon on Sunday 22nd! 

So, after breakfast we were up and out to enjoy the morning sun and the stunning views from Britains's highest mountain. It was still a bit nippy, but another couple of laps around the shelter soon got the blood flowing again and it was time for some kodak moments. 

A much better view of Tower Ridge (and a bit of Tower Gully), with the Ledge Route and Carn Dearg to it's right. Pity about my shadow in the picture though. With crampons on we felt much safer wandering around near the edge.

Carn Dearg again, and Tower Ridge in front, all the way down to almost the CIC Hut.

The CMD (Carn Mor Dearg Arete) looking amazing in the spring sunshine and Aonach Mor and the ski area behind.

Ian and myself at the summit trig point getting some warmth from the sun. Despite appearances, there was still a chilly breeze.   

A couple of young "Three Peakers", Dan and Lewis from Peterborough, who appeared and had a chat with us. Well done lads, and I hope you stayed awake for the drive home...

Ian making his way down over the boulder field to the start of the arete. Although most of the rock was covered, there was still a slight crust on the surface of the snow, so even going downhill was energy sapping. It also got a little warmer as we got some shelter from the NE Buttress.  

Another layer off, and it was down to business on the arete. We met one guy on his way up, so no real trench had been formed to speak of, and with heavy packs we had to be carefull about how we place our feet between rock and fresh snow.  

Ian on the arete with Carn Mor Dearg, the highest point, in the distance.

Another slog up the summit of Carn Mor Dearg! We did see a team of two making their way up towards the base of the arete below the abseil posts area. I think there is a climb there, but not sure of the name?   

The arete and summit of the Ben looking  very alpine.

Ian on Carn Mor Dearg.

Myself and "Mac", on Carn Mor Dearg. Just one small subsiduary top to cross and it's all downhill, back to the CIC Hut path, the top carpark and down to the North Face car park.    

One last view straight across to Number 5 Gully in the centre, Ledge Route to it's right, the two Castle Gullies and the Castle itself. 

Ben Nevis - Ledge Route and Carn Mor Dearg Arete - 12th Januray 2012

A 4.30am start from Edinburgh got us to the North Face car park at about 7.30 ish and already it was filling up fast! A ninety trek up to the CIC Hut was made easier by the new path and soon we were at the foot of No 5 Gully, just in front of the crowds gearing up behind us. It was quite gloomy and the low cloud looked like spoiling the day and with no view of the Carn Mor Dearg arete, we were doubtful as to it's condition and whether it was worth doing?      

Willy heading up towards No 5 Gully across old avalanche debris. 

"Wise man of the mountains". Willy taking in the (gloomy) view at the base of the first ramp.

We took gear and a rope, but the snow was good and the first ramp was well covered including the small step up near the top which was hardly noticeable. 

The whole route was well covered, and after the "wall" section which only bare at its very end, the rocky spine opened out into a fine broad arete before the final steeper section.  

Gordon on the the final section.This is a little steeper but offers no great difficulties with plenty of snow and a brief glimpse of sunshine through the cloud at the top.

At the top of the Ledge Route, Carn Dearg, we made our way around to the summit, passing all the gullies and buttresses and attempting to identify them. The easiest is No 4 Gully seen here. Easy because it has it's (in)famous marker post!  

At this point the cloud lifted to reveal an amazing cloud inversion with views of all the major Ben Nevis landmarks which prompted some frantic happy snapping!  

There were some amazing and very large overhanging cornices on most gullies. This one on No 3 Gully seems to almost draw you in!  

Almost alone on the final slopes to the summit plateau.

Considering the weather and the busy car park, we expected the summit to be alot busier, although I suppose most climbers avoid it if they can.

The Ben Nevis summit shelter surrounded by a sea of snow.

Looking over the north face towards Aonach Mor and the CMD Arete (closest). I was trying to create a broken spectre, bottom left, but I couldn't get close enough to the edge to get my shadow inside it!  

The Ledge Route and CMD Arete, Ben Nevis, 7th September, 2008

After a relatively early night, we left the bunkhouse in Fort William for the North Face car park and an 8-0-clockish start on the walk in to Coire na Ciste. See map.

You can just see (behind Stevie as he arrived at No 5 Gully) the rebuilding work still going on, even on a Sunday, on the CIC Hut.

Number 5 Gully, the way to the start of the Ledge Route, looked very different from when we saw it in June when there was still a couple of metres of snow covering the large boulders in the centre of the gully. Although fairly straighforward, the slab at the start of the route was very wet and slimy, though there are plenty of holds and cracks to help you across. After we used the rope, it was felt that we probably could've crossed it quicker without it! Still, it was good practice and gave us chance to think about how we would do the same in winter.

As you get higher up the route, you get great views of the Douglas Boulder and Tower Ridge. Stevie, Mark and Willy having a break on the grassy section before the scrambling starts again. You can make the route as easy or as hard as you like, especially on the short wall like section!

Gordon on the broader section above the "wall".

The final section is easy grade 1 ground up to the cairn marking the north-west summit of Carn Dearg. We then took a tour of the gully tops and buttresses, proving how easy even in broad daylight to confuse one gully or butress from another! As soon as we met the zig zags, we joined the masses en route for the summit. Stevie, Gordon, Mark and Willy enjoying the sun (but no view?) on the summit, before we set off for Carn Mor Dearg Arete. Unfortuneatly, the cloud came right down over the CMD so we didn't get the views of the Ben we had hoped for.

Of course, as usual, the cloud started to lift a little when we got back to the North Face car park!