Scottish Winter Conditions, Ben Nevis - The Ledge Route & No4 Gully - 15th March 2015.

How early do you have to get up to get to the Ben for this kind of weather?
0315, that's how early, but it was well worth it. Stunning alpine like conditions all day. The North Face car park was very busy, as was the Ben. We had thought about No 2 Gully, or even Reaburns Easy Route, but then decided The Ledge Route may not keep it's alpine character as long as the gullies would hold their snow, so The Ledge it was.
Always a brilliant at that grade (II) with stunning views across the North Face of Ben Nevis. It was still a bit chilly in the wind at the top, but we thought, well we're here now, we may aswell visit the summit. We passed a handy snow bollard at the top of No 4 Gully on the way up which we reckoned could be useful later. As it was, on our return, we saw a guide and her client abseiling off it, so we promptly followed.
The gully seemed to get steeper lower down after the turn and a little down climbing was needed. After that it was an atmospheric walk past the well hidden (by snow) lochans and down to the CIC Hut.
The coire was echoing with various calls from different teams climbing almost everywhere (except the major gullies which had massive cornices).      

No 5 Gully.

Ian and Willy on the first ramp.

Willy high up on The Ledge Route.

Snow arete up to Carn Dearg. 

Heading up to the summit of the Ben.

The Ledge Route as seen from the summit.  

Spot the climbers in Tower Gap. 

Climber about to top out.

Our trusty snow bollard.

Off the edge of No 4 Gully.

A very easy abseil really. 

Me and Willy below the huge (thankfully very frozen) cornices in No 4 Gully. 

Descending Coire na Ciste. 

The Douglas Boulder and lower section of Tower Ridge. 

Ben Nevis - Ledge Route and Carn Mor Dearg Arete - 12th Januray 2012

A 4.30am start from Edinburgh got us to the North Face car park at about 7.30 ish and already it was filling up fast! A ninety trek up to the CIC Hut was made easier by the new path and soon we were at the foot of No 5 Gully, just in front of the crowds gearing up behind us. It was quite gloomy and the low cloud looked like spoiling the day and with no view of the Carn Mor Dearg arete, we were doubtful as to it's condition and whether it was worth doing?      

Willy heading up towards No 5 Gully across old avalanche debris. 

"Wise man of the mountains". Willy taking in the (gloomy) view at the base of the first ramp.

We took gear and a rope, but the snow was good and the first ramp was well covered including the small step up near the top which was hardly noticeable. 

The whole route was well covered, and after the "wall" section which only bare at its very end, the rocky spine opened out into a fine broad arete before the final steeper section.  

Gordon on the the final section.This is a little steeper but offers no great difficulties with plenty of snow and a brief glimpse of sunshine through the cloud at the top.

At the top of the Ledge Route, Carn Dearg, we made our way around to the summit, passing all the gullies and buttresses and attempting to identify them. The easiest is No 4 Gully seen here. Easy because it has it's (in)famous marker post!  

At this point the cloud lifted to reveal an amazing cloud inversion with views of all the major Ben Nevis landmarks which prompted some frantic happy snapping!  

There were some amazing and very large overhanging cornices on most gullies. This one on No 3 Gully seems to almost draw you in!  

Almost alone on the final slopes to the summit plateau.

Considering the weather and the busy car park, we expected the summit to be alot busier, although I suppose most climbers avoid it if they can.

The Ben Nevis summit shelter surrounded by a sea of snow.

Looking over the north face towards Aonach Mor and the CMD Arete (closest). I was trying to create a broken spectre, bottom left, but I couldn't get close enough to the edge to get my shadow inside it!  

No 4 Gully marker post - yes or no?

Just read Alan Halewood's blog regarding someones premature removal of the marker post above Number 4 Gully on Ben Nevis. His piece makes for interesting reading as does the article in Caledonian Mercury. There seems to be an argument for and against the marker, especially in the "keeping wild places, wild" camp. I too  don't like "too many" artificial aids, but at the risk of contradicting myself, the Number 4 Gully marker seems like a useful one to keep.
Of course some degree of navigational skill should be required when out on the hills, but in difficult conditions this one single marker seems a small price to pay. Maybe it could be made less intrusive, I don't know? A single unmarked post? I know as a low grade climber I would seek some reassurance from it's existence and, rightly or wrongly feel some pressure from the "elite" not to be there if we're not up to MIC standard. The mountains are there for everybody , it's how we police, manage and educate those who use them that's the issue.     

 

 

     

Ledge Route and No 4 Gully, 2nd January 2011.

Myself, Mark and Stevie had an early start today and drove up to Ben Nevis. We headed up to No 5 Gully in order to do The Ledge Route. Not the most snow we've seen in the coire, but most of the gully lines seemed complete (numbers 2 and 3 in the picture). Even so, there were plenty of teams out enjoying the break in the weather before the forecast change later in the day.

The steep plod up to No 5 Gully is much easier on snow, but on the scree and rock it's a bit of a pain!
The three guys in front were heading across to No 2 Gully (out of shot).

 

Looking up No 5 Gully from the top of the scree. The overnight freeze made for excellent conditions and there were various ice falls and cascades that teams were using for practicing ice climbing techniques.

Faffing about with knots and stuff before setting off!

The first "ledge" as you turn right out of No 5 Gully was in great nick with some ice and really grippy snow so we didn't bother using any gear although we lugged it along just in case!

Looking back down to Stevie and Mark just exiting No 5 Gully.

Higher up on the route the snow was a little leaner in places, especially around by the "wall" section and the little blocky section just after it. This added to the route as there were various easy rock steps in a choice of lines so add interest - sometimes just walking up a snow trench is too easy!

An eerire deserted Ben Nevis summit.

A quick cuppa in the observatory ruins before heading back across to No 4 Gully just as the mist came in and the temperature dropped.

Stevie and Mark making their way down a very stepped out No 4 Gully.

No 4 Gully looking a little bare in the middle. Bumsliding out of the question!

Remember folks, it gets dark early in the winter so don't forget your headtorch!