Information and photos of my mountaineering trips in Scotland,England and Wales:
Including hillwalking,scrambling and easy rock climbing.Also via ferrata, skiing and alpine trips in Europe.

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Showing posts with label Broken Spectre. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Broken Spectre. Show all posts

Sunday, 11 March 2012

Threading the Needle, 11th March 2012.

With the prospect of little in the way of winter climbing (at our level !), myself and Ian decided on some easy-ish scrambling in the Lakes. The forecast was also a bit better further south and so we headed for Seathwaite with The Climbers Traverse, a "threading of the needle" and Sphinx Ridge. The walk via the alternative path alongside Taylorforth Gill was pleasant but sweaty in the unusually warm weather, and the Climbers Traverse was equally enjoyable. The low cloud came and went as we approached Napes Needle and we finally got a view of our route between the needle and the crag behind. The way up between the Needle and the main crag needs some squirming and grunting to get up before a brief rest on some blocks before the tricky (in the wet) downclimb.    
As it turned out, it was damp in the shaded side of the needle and together with the very polished rocks we didn't fancy trusting our boots on the greasy rock. We had put harnesses on in case of this so all we had to do was get out the 30m roped, place it round one of the blocks and abseil down.  
Ian abbing down through the gloom on the other side of the needle. We then made our way around the face of the crag to the Dress Circle for a well earned cuppa!  
Sadly there were no views of the Scafell's to be had through the cloud and there was only just a view of Napes Needle itself.

  Somehow I managed to draw blood, either on the way up through the needle or on the abseil down! 

 Sphinx Rock through the cloud and Sphinx Ridge behind it. There are various descriptions for getting onto the ridge, but in the past, in good weather I have tackled it direct from behind the Sphinx. Most guides have it as a grade 2 scramble, however today it proved really awkward and needed a bit of a cheat by pulling on some gear as we climbed up to the right of the slab into a notch in the first tower!? I can only guess I went left up the more exposed slab to the left the last time I did it? Obviously the more direct route is harder ,maybe Diff or V-Diff? 

 We did see a (very small!) brocken spectre further up the ridge though.
After the enjoyable scramble up Westmorland Crags, we were rewarded with a cloud inversion over Styhead and Wasdale, with the Scafell's in the distance.
Looking over to Langdale with Harrison Stickle and Pike of Stickle and Windermere behind.
Some of the locals down in Seathwaite.

Sunday, 12 February 2012

Ben Nevis - Ledge Route and Carn Mor Dearg Arete - 12th Januray 2012

A 4.30am start from Edinburgh got us to the North Face car park at about 7.30 ish and already it was filling up fast! A ninety trek up to the CIC Hut was made easier by the new path and soon we were at the foot of No 5 Gully, just in front of the crowds gearing up behind us. It was quite gloomy and the low cloud looked like spoiling the day and with no view of the Carn Mor Dearg arete, we were doubtful as to it's condition and whether it was worth doing?      
Willy heading up towards No 5 Gully across old avalanche debris. 
"Wise man of the mountains". Willy taking in the (gloomy) view at the base of the first ramp.
We took gear and a rope, but the snow was good and the first ramp was well covered including the small step up near the top which was hardly noticeable. 
The whole route was well covered, and after the "wall" section which only bare at its very end, the rocky spine opened out into a fine broad arete before the final steeper section.  
Gordon on the the final section.This is a little steeper but offers no great difficulties with plenty of snow and a brief glimpse of sunshine through the cloud at the top.
At the top of the Ledge Route, Carn Dearg, we made our way around to the summit, passing all the gullies and buttresses and attempting to identify them. The easiest is No 4 Gully seen here. Easy because it has it's (in)famous marker post!  
At this point the cloud lifted to reveal an amazing cloud inversion with views of all the major Ben Nevis landmarks which prompted some frantic happy snapping!  
There were some amazing and very large overhanging cornices on most gullies. This one on No 3 Gully seems to almost draw you in!  
Almost alone on the final slopes to the summit plateau.
Considering the weather and the busy car park, we expected the summit to be alot busier, although I suppose most climbers avoid it if they can.
The Ben Nevis summit shelter surrounded by a sea of snow.
Looking over the north face towards Aonach Mor and the CMD Arete (closest). I was trying to create a broken spectre, bottom left, but I couldn't get close enough to the edge to get my shadow inside it!