Information and photos of my mountaineering trips in Scotland,England and Wales:
Including hillwalking,scrambling and easy rock climbing.Also via ferrata, skiing and alpine trips in Europe.

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Sunday, 1 August 2010

North Buttress, Buchaille etive Mor - 1st August 2010.

With a bit of vague forecast of watery sunshine, my self, Gordon and Willy headed for Glencoe. We had planned to do the North Buttress route on Bucahaille etive Mor, and on the easy scramble up past the two large blocks that act as a guide to finding the route, we were certain that we would get more water than sunshine.
However, we were surprised to see the cloud base lift and apart from the occasional spot of brief dampness, we did the whole route with just one layer.
The route itself is Grade III/Mod, but in the damp slightly greasy conditions it may be Diff? Basically you follow a series of cracks and chimneys for most of the route, and it's open to variation although one higher section of chimney is a wee bit tricky especially when wet or greasy and can be bypassed to the right before heading back left.
We roped up, although perfectly do-able without it, it offered some reassurance on the wet bits and as usual is a good route to practice leading, belaying etc.

Willy and Gordon applying some light sunscreen!

Gordon (leading) and Willy scrambling on the easy lower section of the route with the higher steeper section just visible above.


Gordon having a shot at leading on the lower part of the main buttress which gets progressively steeper but always with lots of protection and holds. There was a team in front, also practicing stuff which gave us time to enjoy the views and practice ours!

 Gordon higher up in the chimney system now with some entertaining fallen blocks to negotiate.

Willy, taking second place on the rope.

Me as last man, looking down the section with the fallen blocks (just below and left of the small pinnacle). It is possible to go up left of the pinnacle (right in the photo), but it was very wet and greasy.

The route eases off after a while and easier scrambling and walking leads you direct to the summit shelter with views of Crowberry Gully and Crowberry Tower to your left. The photo above is looking down to the car park, with the Devils Staircase section of the West Highland Way leading up and over to Kinlochleven, and Blackwater reservoir visible high on the right.  

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